Every Fish Bar (Fish & Chips, Nigerian) – Harrow, London

Having enjoyed a quick bite at Every Fish Bar last week when covering a story of the owner having suffered a racial incident, it was inevitable that we’d be returning.

Proudly putting the Afro-Caribbean in Fish & Chips!

After all, how often do you encounter an Afro-Caribbean influenced menu at a local fish and chips shop, let alone a fully Halal one that’s run by a black Muslim of Nigerian heritage?

Located in Harrow, west London, Mohammed Gbadamosi experienced a bout of ‘casual racism’ after a customer suggested that his shop might prove more popular if fronted by a white face (read the full story here)!

It was during our stay, that Mr Gbadamosi, who’s as passionate about his food as any restaurateur one is likely to meet, generously served us one of his House Specials along with a portion of loaded chips.

What we experienced was enough to convince us that there was more to this 12-cover fish and chips shop – much more in fact given such unique items as Suya Beef, Jerk Fish, Jollof Rice, and Jamaican Patties – than meets the eye.

Chili Fish – Large cod in hot chili and spice mix, £9.00

And it was this Chili Fish House Special, which Mohammed originally teased us with the first time we visited, that ultimately prompted our return for this review.

Honestly; how many local fish and chips joints do you know of that go out of their way to present meals in this way? That was our first reaction.

The fish itself had a gorgeous crusted top, was flaky as hell, and just as hot no doubt, with the chilli heat coming through in spades. As for its cooking, then the cod struck a good balance between the tender and moist flesh on the inside, and the crispiness achieved on the out. Had with the rice, which was decent enough and topped with dollops of lightly tangy chilli sauce, and this was most certainly a Chili Fish.

Pan Fried Snapper, £7.00

The Pan Fried Snapper had more of a deep fried look to it, courtesy of the spicy dry rub it had been generously coasted in.

Carefully traversing past all those little bones, we enjoyed the contrast of the crispy-cum-crunchy skin and the relatively moist flesh beneath.

The side of salad also paired well by helping to dampen the salty nature of the rub which offered some gentle warmth in the background.

Cod Large, £7.20 with Chips Small, £1.80

Turning out moist and flaky on the inside, and enveloped in a light and crispy, golden batter that was expertly judged, their version of the quintessential cod and chips is as good as you’re going to find anywhere.

Couple that with hand-cut chips, which were fluffy and soft on the inside, and just right on the out, and you’re on to a winner here.

Just be sure to drown these delicious chips in plenty of vinegar.

Grilled Salmon, £7.00

A simply present Grilled Salmon which, similar to the Pan Fried Snapper above, appeared to have been lightly marinated in another rub.

Not only did this provide a more crispier top, but the skin beneath the salmon also managed to retain a lovely crunchiness, all of which contrasted well against that flavourous salmon pink flesh beneath.

Seafood Basket Platter (cod roe x4 for review purposes) – Cod Bites x2, calamari x4, panko fried prawn x4, scampi x4, homemade tartar sauce, £12.50

And this Seafood Basket Platter was the start of dishes to come which confirmed that Every Fish Bar was more than just your local chippy.

Appetisingly presented on a wooden board, and accompanied by a small bowl of homemade tartar sauce, was a quartet of items, each as intriguing as the next.

The best of the bunch was definitely the scampi, which, being soft on the inside and covered in a delicately crispy batter, successfully delivered on that familiar vinegary hint one knows and enjoys of a fresh lobster.

Its prawn cousin was beautifully done too, with a crispier panko crumb exterior, and that touch of chewiness of a well executed crustacean.

Being large and prominent in size, the calamari were some of the best you’re likely to have, with a tenderness that we really enjoyed.

The light and airy cod roe, which were included for review purposes, had a mild aroma, so you’ll probably enjoy this the most paired with the creamy and subtly sour tartar sauce.

As for the cod bites, then these moist and succulent mouthfuls were delightful being crisped to perfection.

All in all, an excellent choice to get the taste buds rolling before moving on to the more substantial aspects of the menu.

Chicken Wings Suya x7, £8.50

This offering of Chicken Wings Suya was kaleidoscopically arranged with segments of tomato and slices of red onion, which made for another smartly presented dish.

Suya, if you don’t know, is a well known spice used across parts of Africa which, in this case, was utilised as another dry rub, and worked well in delivering an almost fried chicken texture, but without the oily residue.

With the wings managing to retain their moistness, the Suya spice offered enough good heat to make these dainty little nuggets an addictive eat.

We make our own chips – Best of British potatoes freshly cut daily on-site

Peppered Chips, £3.20

Having already praised the quality, taste and execution of the chips, topping these with sautéed peppers, onions and a pinch of spicy seasoning only turned out to be a master stroke.

The textural contrast of the soft and crispy coupled with the gentle smoky heat of the mixture culminated in a thoroughly enjoyable portion of loaded Peppered Chips.

Plain Sausage, £1.80; Jumbo Saveloy, £2.00; Battered Sausage, £1.90;

How often was it, while standing their ordering a portion of fish and chips back in the day, where you wished those jumbo saveloys and battered sausages, teasingly laid out in the heated display cabinet, were Halal?

Well, Mohammed has managed to source both; and we have to say, they were thoroughly enjoyable in their own right.

Made of a mixture of chicken and lamb, this Jumbo Saveloy was soft and meaty; and would be a good addition to your portion of chips.

Made from chicken, the Battered Sausage wasn’t just presented in an uber crispy batter, but was thick and substantial, with that tantalising sausage aroma.

And if you just want it au natural, then Plain Sausage it has to be.

Jollof Rice, £4.50 with Fried Plantain, £2.50

This wasn’t too bad a combination, with the Jollof Rice evidently reheated, but with a light, spicy-smokiness to it which we enjoyed.

As for the Fried Plantain, then these had the texture of potato, with a hint of sweetness to them, and combined well with the accompanying mellow red sauce dip.