Nigerian-Ghanaian fish & chips at Every Fish Bar in London Harrow

We had the pleasure of reviewing Every Fish Bar in 2020 before rating it 4/5 for having successfully given the traditional British fish and chips menu an Afro-Caribbean twist.

Located in Harrow, this place has the unique distinction of being London’s only fish and chip shop run by a black Muslim of Nigerian-Ghanaian descent.

At the time, owner Mohammed Gbadamosi had been the victim of casual racism when a customer told him that his shop would be better served if fronted by a white face.

Every Fish Bar named as Fry Magazine’s 50 best fish & chips shops in 2021

Motivated to prove otherwise, Mohammed’s hard work was rewarded a year later when Every Fish Bar was the only one in London to be recognised among Fry Magazine’s 50 best fish & chips shops in 2021.

Our return to this fully Halal, award-winning establishment was motivated by the recent introduction of their new House Specials to what Mohammed has dubbed his ‘Ghanaij’ (a contraction of the words Ghanaian and Nigerian) menu.

Saucy fried wings (Hot), £4.95

Every Fish Bar have introduced, as part of their ‘Saucy Chicken’ range, a number of exciting flavours for their wings which include hot, sweet & sour, BBQ, and peri peri.

As the above picture suggests, these moderately sized wings didn’t just have a satisfyingly crispy-cum-chewy exterior, but were liberally based in a deliciously powerful buffalo sauce whose tangy goodness will have you licking your fingers thrice over.

Chicken suya with chips and a choice of sauce: £7.50 takeaway, £11.00 dine-in; side salad £1.50

But the main reason we were here was to showcase and enjoy house specials which, as the menu states, “you are unlikely to find… in any other fish & chip shop”.

This was plainly presented, with the chicken being pulled apart and rustically presented, before being generously seasoned with jerk seasoning.

This rough and ready preparation, while culminating in nuggets served slightly on the dry side by design, made for an unusually enjoyable munch when had with the accompanying fresh salad of onions, lettuce, and large slices of tomato.

Jerk sea bass with salad & either chips, jollof rice or crushed potatoes, £12.40 takeaway, dine-in £13.40; plantain £3.00

Their Jerk Fish can be had with chips or jollof rice. We opted for the latter, along with a side of plantain for an extra two quid, and a bowl of tomato chilli sauce.

The star of the show was, indeed, that superb fillet of fish. Boasting an uber crispy skin, not only was it coated in a salty jerk marination, but also flaked apart effortlessly.

Add to that the fragrant jollof rice, which only slightly betrayed a reheated quality; plantain segments with nicely crisped edges; and a mildly chilli sauce, that helped bring the entire plate together coherenly, and this was a delightful plate of food.

Jerk chicken & chips: £9.50 takeaway, £10.50 dine-in

These jerk chicken legs can also be enjoyed with plantain in place of the chips; but, given how good the latter is, why would you?

In any case, these quarter pieces of poultry were beautifully executed. Having been marinated in a flavourous jerk sauce, their skin turned out wonderfully crispy, and was made better by the addition of a mildly spicy, viscous jerk sauce.

Large fish & chips with homemade tartare sauce: £12.90 takeaway, £13.90 dine-in

And last but not least: the reason why Every Fish Bar was named amongst Fry Magazine’s top 50 fish and chip shops in 2021.

Just look at that cross-section…

As with our previous review in 2020, this was served just as good if not better. It’s evident that they have this down to a tee, with the battered cod delivering on that fine balance between the crunchy crispiness and the flaky airiness.

Not only was the flesh therein tender and succulent, but the chips themselves exquisitely executed, being light and soft on the inside, and yet retaining that delicate crispiness on the out.

Of course, being in a Nigerian-inspired version, plantain was always ever going to be partnered with the traditional mushy peas and homemade zingy tartare sauce.

Lagos burger – Akara/ homemade bean patty, homemade red sauce, grilled onion & salad: £6.50 takeaway, £10.00 dine-in

A lagos burger, if you don’t know, is a common street food staple served in Nigeria’s largest city from which it takes its name. Having never had one before, this was always going to be a must try.

Admittedly a simple sandwich, this comprised of a moist bean patty, which was aromatic, and encased by a lightly crispy batter, before being covered in a fragrant inhouse red sauce, onions, and a salad of lettuce of cucumber.

A good burger for what it was, and one which can also be had with a more robust chilli sauce, which we’d recommend if you like your chilli.