#FtLionAwards 2024 Starter of the Year shortlist

Located just outside Ealing Broadway Shopping Centre on the High Street is Comptoir Libanais, an international chain with 20 sites dotted across the UK, as well as restaurants in the Middle East, the Netherlands and Italy.

Specialising in Middle East and North Africa cuisine, they served us owner Tony’s signature hommos, with the twist of a Yemeni “salsa” topping bringing a touch of heat.

This was one of the smoothest and tastiest versions we’ve had in a very long time with the freshly-made olive oil bread accompanying it being an absolutely perfect match.

With two drinks in for the running, Michelin-starred Chef Rohit Ghai’s Manthan in central London’s Mayfair served us this sublime Shami Kebab.

Expertly crafted with the kebab, itself boasting a beautifully crumbly and delicate texture, sat in a masala-rich sauce that was driven by the umaminess of the bone marrow it was made from. This came with a crispy paratha that was used to enjoy that meaty, curry flavoured sauce.

Paro is an Indian restaurant in Covent Garden just off the Strand on Wellington Street, which is run by the young 24-year-old Muslim Chef Niaz Caan.

He served us these Toddy Shop Tiger Prawns, which were plump pieces of gorgeously grilled crustaceans atop a caramelised onion base whose smoky-sweetness married superbly against the lightly spiced marination of the prawns.

With a drink up for contention, Chef Peter Joseph served us some phenomenal food at his 5/5-rated Kahani restaurant in London’s Chelsea. We start with Smoked Octopus and Shrimp Salad.

This impressed us because of how the Chef managed to finely balance the sweet and sour of the segments of orange and grapefruit therein, with the earthiness of the fresh turmeric, and the light smokiness of the pieces of octopus and shrimp. It was nothing short of extraordinary.

Middle Eastern restaurant Roma in London’s Southall Broadway made what was some of the best falafels we’ve ever had. This marvellous Falafel Platter was also one of the highlights of the review.

Resting on a bed of finely-chopped salad were golden balls of goodness, whose addictively crunchy outer coating encased a delectably hot and herbaceous chickpea interior which we couldn’t get enough of.

With a drink up for an award, Chef Marco Pierre White’s Mr White’s English Chophouse had a number of starters that were outstanding, such as this complex Caponata of Summer Vegetables, which revolved around sweet and earthy flavours, with the smokiness of the peppers pleasantly lingering in the background.

With two mocktails already in contention, Ribeye in Birmingham put up these exquisite balls Crispy Chicken Cheddar Globes, whose delicately crispy casing gave way to an aromatic mixture of chicken and cheese, and was beautifully complemented by the rich fragrance of the smooth saffron aioli sauce.

Also with a beverage having been nominated, Riwaz by Michelin Chef Atul Kochhar in Beaconsfield served us these tender segments of succulent Scottish Salmon.

Being generous in size, they were marinated in a honey and mustard concoction, before being topped by a slice of radish and some more caviar. Had with the dollop of chutney and the onion salad on the side, this was a terrifically balanced dish.

There was then the rich tanginess of the sauce which made this Cocktail of Atlantic Prawns, as we declared in the review,”one of the best prawn cocktails we’ve had”.

With a bed of finely grated lettuce, as well as segments of hard boiled egg, this was a dangerously addictive dish, with the brown buttered bread used for mopping things up at the close.