Superb traditional food at Kitchen India in London County Hall

A restaurant whose concept and ambition has been 25 years in the making…

Our review of Kitchen India in the iconic London County Hall meant that this was also our first visit to this Grade II-listed building located on the banks of the River Thames near the London Eye.

We first met its talented Indian Chef, Khilesh Anand, in 2022 at Hotel 55’s inhouse restaurant Royal Shezan in Ealing, London, which we rated 4.5/5.

Kitchen India is located in the Grade II-listed London County Hall

Known to his friends as ‘KK’, he is the former head chef of world renowned fine-dining restaurant, The Cinnamon Club, and Mint Leaf in Haymarket.

Chef’s Ramadan set menu this year

Chef Anand’s also cooked for the likes of Archbishop Desmond Tutu, Microsoft founder Bill Gates, and the Sultan of Brunei.

Describing this latest venture as “a restaurant whose concept and ambition has been 25 years in the making”, he is focusing on delivering “quality, authentic, home-style Indian cuisine using locally-sourced products”.

This has been showcased in his latest Ramadan set menu, in which he has introduced a number of new dishes that will also be part of Kitchen India’s a la carte menu.

Karare Sabz – Pan sauteed asparagus, pachdi, onion rings, trio of chutneys

What made this Karare Sabz such a memorable starter wasn’t just that it was easily the most modern-looking of all the dishes served in this review, but also because of its trio of sauces.

With crunchy asparagus resting on a thick, curd-based raita from the south of India called a pachdi, we had onion rings encased in a crispy batter, with everything smothered in a unique and vibrantly pink beetroot sauce, dark tamarind sauce, and sweet yoghurt. The result was a dish that dazzled the taste buds and senses with the interplay of flavours and textures.

Papdi Chaat – Spiced potatoes & chickpeas, in a drizzle of chutneys, £9.00

As traditional as a Papdi Chaat is, this brilliantly executed little bowl was all about the delicate textures, flavours, and gentle spices, which culminated in another beautifully balanced starter.

Shahi Lamb Kebabs – Spiced chargrilled lamb mince kebabs, £12.00

These lightly spiced Shahi Lamb Kebabs were exquisitely done, with this version being chargrilled just enough to impart the delicate hint of smokiness while remaining soft and tender throughout.

Tandoori Lamb Champney – Trimmed lamb chops lightly seasoned in degi mirch & garam masala, £16.00

Although described as being “lightly seasoned in degi mirch & garam masala”, these tandoori lamb chops were a little too lightly seasoned for our liking, in spite of them being nicely charred.

Perhaps these might been served better by being paired with a robust dipping sauce rather than the streak of yoghurt mint.

Surmai Bass – Pan-grilled sea bass, potatoes, green courgettes, kadi gravy, £24.00

A creamy gram-flour based curry boasting depth of flavour, and two generous fillets of lightly spiced sea bass, both masterfully pan-fried to a crispy finish and placed on a bed of fried potatoes and green courgettes, meant that this was the dish of the review.

While the subtly-spiced kadi gravy in this Surmai Bass delivered on that familiar tangy edge, the crunchy pakorai garnish provided the necessary textural contrast. Worth the entry fee and travel alone this one.

Murgh Jalfrezi – Chicken in a combination of red onion & bell peppers, £15.00

It was these three final dishes, however, that proved Chef Anand’s mastery of South Asian spices.

Despite the full-bodied curry in this Murgh Jalfrezi being driven by the bold flavours of an achari pickle, the spices therein allowed the sweetness of the red onions and bell peppers to play their respective parts.

Add to that the pieces of chicken lending a touch of smokiness to this affair, and we couldn’t get enough of it.

Jhinga Gazzi – Jumbo prawns cooked in spicy masala blend, £19.00

And while the above Murgh Jalfrezi was an exercise in balancing strong flavours, this Jhinga Gazzi demonstrated the art of subtle enhancement.

The manner in which the Chef utilised his knowledge of spices to help accentuate the natural sweetness of these succulently chewy prawns was something to behold. Exceptional!

Lamb Dum Biryani – Spiced lamb in aged basmati rice, braised onions & saffron, £18.00

Of course, given such depth of knowledge, this Lamb Dum Biryani being a triumph was a foregone conclusion.

This particular version was of the type intended to pack a spicious punch, rather than a shaking of hands.

Hence, while the garam masala remained firmly in the background without overstepping its boundary, the other spices, including the all-important floral earthiness of the saffron, were allowed to come through nicely. Moist and luscious, with the lamb being dreamily tender, this was a very enjoyable biryani.

Tandoori Naan £3.50; Garlic Tandoori Naan, Laacha Paratha – £4.50 each

Chawal – Basmati steamed rice, £4.00; Jeera Pulao – Basmati rice with roasted cumin, £5.00

Freshly made naans, rice, and a selection of other sides which are well worth exploring.