Patri (Indian) – Northfields, London

Puneet Wadhwani is not just the founder of Patri in west London’s Northfields, but also the founder and creative director of independent street food restaurant, Chai Naasto, whose Hammersmith branch we reviewed back in 2017.

Award-winning chef, Puneet Wadhwani

But things have changed since then, with Puneet having launched Patri in late 2018, before replacing Chai Naasto with a second Patri branch in Hammersmith earlier this year.

In a post-Brexit environment as volatile for restaurateurs as it is for anyone else (more so perhaps for Indian restaurant owners), that might sound risky to some, but not to Puneet.

Not only was Patri Hammersmith shortlisted as a finalist for ‘Restaurant of the Year’ and Patri Northfields ‘New Restaurant of the Year’ at this year’s London Curry Awards, but Patri Hammersmith eventually won ‘Street Food Restaurant of the Year’, while Puneet was voted ‘Curry Entrepreneur of the Year’.

Patri’s menu centers around the distinct culinary journeys of India’s historic railway stations.

The name Patri, which means ‘railway track’, essentially represents the theme that’s inspired the menu, which seeks at “bringing to life the snacks and dishes” enjoyed by Puneet as a child, both at New Delhi train station and those on board India’s great rail journeys.

More specifically, the menu revolves around the following “2 train journeys of India”: New Delhi Station and Calcutta Junction – the latter being a new menu update and replacement to the previous Marwar Junction.

It is important to note that while FtLion is one of the first to try said menu, it is scheduled to go live on Deliveroo this coming Wednesday 18th before being introduced across the two branches a week later on the 24th.

Of course, given the similarities, one question we did have going in, is whether Patri would also fall foul of Chai Naasto’s biggest shortcoming: the “toning down on the use of the many bold and vibrant spices that represent and epitomise Indian cooking”, which we suspected was “down to them catering for the local palate”.

(L-R) 28. Masala Iced Karma Soda – East meets West in this dark drink made using organic cola mixed with tangy chaat masala and black salt; “Summer Plantation” – Made on request; 29. Nimbu Lemon Soda – Lemon is shaken with their signature chaat masala and Himalayan salt and topped with soda and mint – £4.50 each

Karma Cola, £2.50

Those not used to chaat masala – a mixture of spices that impart a tangy, zingy flavour – might find both the Masala Iced Karma Soda and the Nimbu Lemon Soda potent concoctions. At least that was certainly true for one Lion, who described them as “not for the timid”.

Nevertheless, while the latter was certainly fiercer than its Karma Soda counterpart, whose sweetness helped cut through the strength of the masala, what we did find, much to our pleasant surprise, is how these drinks helped neutralise the intense heat of some of the curries had below.

As for the Summer Plantation, then this layered citrusy affair had a tangy edge to it, thanks to the grenadine; but wasn’t anything outstanding.

The Karma Cola was an interesting one though. Milder than coke, and certainly less harsh, this was sweeter and quite nice too.

4. “Boyfriend” Chaat – crispy spicy wheat flour discs topped with vermicelli and potato then topped with our signature yoghurt, mango and tamarind chutney, coriander lemon and pomegranate, £6.50

So this “Boyfriend” Chaat – Patri’s version of the signature batata puri – is the replacement to the “Girlfriend” Chaat from the old Marwa Junction menu.

Simple in make-up, with a soft, loosely-textured and mildly spiced potato and onion mixture, which was placed atop a delicately light and crumbly biscuit base before being covered with a sprinkle of vermicelli and some sweet-cum-tangy tamarind sauce.

5. Ghugni Chaat (vegan) – Boiled hot peas are added to a small leaf bowl, mixed with tomatoes, onions, cucumber, coriander, tamarind water, and lime juice mixed with dry masalas and served with a wooden spoon, £6.50

And this Ghugni Chaat is one of those ferociously hot dishes we alluded to above, which’ll definitely need the neutralising factor of said masala sodas.

Despite one Lion having to reach for a hankie to wipe is sweating brow, the other two enjoyed this for what it was – soft chick peas with diced red onions, cucumbers and tomatoes, all mixed together in a dry masala, which you’ll be feeling at the back of the throat sans any harshness. Our hint: a good squeeze of the wedge of lime will help cut through the heat, though barely.

In short, if this doesn’t have your taste buds primed and ready for the main courses, nothing will!

6. Rasuna Mirchi Paneer (vegan) – 18th Century Old Calcutta classic of garlic, soy and chilli sauce as prepared by the chinese settlers tossed onto cubed paneer for a spicy snack, topped with spring onion, £7.75

An Indo-Chinese dish made true by the heat of the wok, which worked to infuse the entire dish with a smoky scent that was wonderfully countered by the deep, rich, chilli sauce coating these soft and spongy cubes of tender paneer.

Add to that the textural contrast of the chunky pieces of green pepper, red onions and slices of spring onion, and this was a truly satisfying Rasuna Mirchi Paneer, which, we think, would have paired better with sticky white rice.

10. Bengali Jhal Muri (vegan) – Puffed rice, papdi discs, spicy Indian namkeen mix with diced potatoes, chick peas, onions, cucumber, vermicelli is topped with drop of mustard oil, ginger julienne, tamarind and coriander, £6.95

Appreciated more by one Lion than the other two, this large glass of Bengali Jhal Muri comprised of two elements – a combination of crispy light papdi discs, chick peas and finely diced potatoes, all covered to the brim with puffed rice mixed in with diced red onions, cucumbers and green chillies, and topped with dry vermicelli and pomegranates.

While the sauce, in which all this was mixed, had a subtle mustard-like taste to it, it wasn’t as thoroughly mixed through as it could have been, culminating in the puffed rice towards the top remaining somewhat dry, with an almost stale texture to them.

With the texture of this Jhal Muri being palpably more wet heading down towards the bottom of the glass, be sure to give this a quick mix to also help balance out the notes of sweet and sourness therein.

A clever medley which was perhaps a turn or two of the spoon away from winning over the other two Lions.

11. Bappa Hakka (Chilli Chicken Wings) – Spicy Indo-Chinese sauce quickly wok tossed in mixed peppers and topped with spring onion, coriander and a dash of dark soy sauce – Chilli Cheese Bites £6.95, Pop Corn Chicken Bites £7.75, Chilli Chicken Wings £7.75

Another tremendous Indo-Chinese dish to add to the many we’ve already had this year (including those at Fatt Pundit).

These large and satisfyingly chewy Bappa Hakka chilli chicken wings were incredibly good, thanks to a sticky and smoky marinade.

But what we really enjoyed was the way in which the sharpness of the accompanying vinegary dip, full of diced green chillis, managed to add another flavour profile while helping to neutralise some of that chilli heat.

12. Telebhaja Kale Chaat (Crispy Kale) – These fritters are made with gram flour and served on a bed of sweet potato fries topped with kachumber, pomegrante and chaat masala – Cripsy Chicken £7.95, Crispy Kale £6.95

Literally meaning ‘fried goodness’ telebhaja is a Bengali snack sold at almost every street corner of the city.

A tremendous blend of flavours and textures is what defined this Telebhaja Kale Chaat.

Granted it may not look all that pretty, but who cares when you have crunchy, light kale pakoras resting on a bed of soft and sweet potato fries, and smothered in plenty of yoghurt, some tamarind sauce, red onions and pomegranates, which all combined to ensure that no single mouthful was ever going to be the same.

16. Radhuni Chicken (gluten free) – chilli, turmeric, coriander, cumin, fenugreek, topped with bayleaf, £10.95

Despite one Lion considering this Radhuni Chicken to be slightly on the salty side, the others found the robust flavours of the curry enveloping the tender chicken to be quite delicious, especially the way in which the piquancy of its tomato base was expertly masked by the sauce’s sweet-smokey edge.

In short, if you’re after a curry dish that’s rough and ready, then this is the one to consider.

17. Mangsher Jhol (gluten free) – Bengali kitchen classic preparation of mutton slow cooked over low flame in mustard oil and softened boiled potatoes, £14.95

We were told that the mutton in this Mangsher Jhol was marinated for 7-8 hours, before being slow cooked for between 5-7 hours. If that’s not commitment to a cause, in this case Patri’s attempt at serving authentic curries, we don’t know what is!

In any case, the meat here, while being slightly tougher than we’d have ideally preferred, was seared enough to lend a smoky undertone to an otherwise deliciously rich curry, which had good body and a lovely spicy-tangy edge.

18. Nizami Safed Maas (Fish) (nuts, gluten free) – gentle spices blended with almond and cashew nut paste and softened with cream and milk – Paneer £10.50, Chicken £11.50, Fish of the Day £14.95

What an absolutely tremendous fish curry this was, with the delicate portions of fish swimming in a mildly spiced and mellow sweet, smooth and creamy curry, with an earthy undertone.

A Nizami Safed Maas which held our attention right till the last spoonful; and a dish that requires a fresh naan to really enjoy.

13. Pantry Chicken Curry (gluten free) – onions and tomatoes cooked fast- and furious-style, and inspired by the moving express trains before being simmered with yoghurt, masalas and coriander, £9.95

The balance of masalas achieved in this Pantry Chicken Curry was quite something. Not only did they successfully counter the sourness of the tomatoes used therein, but also complemented the tender chunks of chicken.

The curry itself was silky smooth, with a glorious sheen, and enough heat to enjoy this for its aroma and simplicity of taste.

14. Murgh Makhani (Half Boneless £12.50) – Chef’s Signature Butter Chicken on the bone, marinated chicken is first part cooked in the tandoor, clay oven and then the slices are gently cooked in buttery tomato cashew nut gravy topped with fenugreek honey and coriander – Half £10.50, Half Boneless £12.50, Full £14.95, Full Boneless £16.95

When you have Murgh Makhani, or butter chicken, this darn good, why wouldn’t you designate it the Chef’s Signature?

A luxuriously rich, creamy and buttery curry which had everything you would expect from such a classic dish. The heat of the chilli was perfectly judged, allowing for the curry’s signature sweetness to come through in tantalising waves, with the depth of smokiness from the chicken strong, heady and beautifully balanced.

Grab yourselves at least two tandoor naans and enjoy arguably one of the best Murgh Makhanis this side of west London. A triumph!

22. Aloo Posto (veggie, gluten free) – Baby potatoes made in mustard sauce, poppy seeds topped with fenugreek, £5.95

If this Aloo Posto proves anything, it’s that you don’t need to throw the kitchen sink and spice rack at an Indian dish to make it enjoyable. Essentially, this dish is a lesson in trusting in the produce and allowing the flavours to stand on their own, with a minimal use of spices.

Patri’s chef knows precisely what to use when and, more importantly, how much. In this case, the dry masala rub of mustard and poppy seeds, along with fenugreek, will have you wanting more of these gently spiced potatoes.

24. Koraishuti Makhani (veggie) – croquettes stuffed with a filling of mildly hing-infused green peas or ‘koraishuti’ and spinach on a bed of rich butter tomato cashew nut and fenugreek sauce, £7.95

While this attractively presented Koraishuti Makhani was smoother in consistency than the Murgh Makhani had above, though no less vibrant in colour, this was a lightly spiced tomato-tasting curry, that was enhanced by the earthy freshness of a quartet of soft textured, dark croquettes, which were perfectly seasoned, and partnered with cashew nuts.

An addictively good dish that’s innovative in nature and as good as you’re going to get.

31. Thumka Biryani (chicken) – basmati rice and served with Raita and Kachumber – Vegetable £7.50, Chicken £8.50

There’s biryani, and then there’s biryanis, but above the many we’ve reviewed over the years, there’s Patri’s Thumka Biryani!

The fragrance of the aroma emanating therefrom was on another level! But it was the clever impartment of smokiness, no doubt achieved by the “jerk” style of cooking (according to the menu ‘Thumka’ actually means jerk, with this biryani being made “fast and furious… at high flame”), which really caught our attention.

And perhaps it’s this rapid cooking process that accounts for the fantastic spices coming through so perceptibly and harmoniously, which included the warmth of the garam masala.

Hence, while this biryani had an intriguing gentle sweet aftertaste, which included the crispy fried onions sprinkled on top, it was the moistness of the flavoured rice alongside the tender segments of chicken, which made this the total package of biryanis. It, thus, goes without saying: RECOMMENDED!

Tandoori RotiButter NaanSteam RiceJeera Pilau Rice

34. Tandoori Roti (vegan) – Whole Wheat flatbread prepared traditionally in the tandoor, £1.95

A well made Tandoor Roti, which was thin, crispy and buttered in places to offer some contrast.

36. Butter Naan (veggie) – North-Indian style flat bread made with maida, Indian refined flour which is quickly baked in the tandoor and topped with nigella seeds, coriander and unsalted butter, £2.95

Again, a really well made Butter Naan, which had the crispiness and crunchiness all in equal measure.

37. Steam Rice (veggie) – Steamed rice topped with a hint of turmeric and coriander, £2.95

The same was true of this bowl of rice. Hardly surprising though.

38. Jeera Pilau Rice (veggie) – Grand Tilda superior basmati rice is topped with tempered cumin seeds and turmeric, £3.50

Although this did have a spicy freshness to it, it also had a slight reheated-ness to it too.